CENTRAL VIETNAM

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The next leg of our adventure in Vietnam took us on a seven hour train journey to a town on the coast called Nha Trang.  What we didn't realise when we started our journey around Vietnam was that 30 April in Vietnam is "Reunification Day" which is a three day public holiday.

What we also didn't realise was that we were to be the only westerners on this train and that we had been given tickets in separate compartments, on a fully booked train.  We tried to sit in the "restaurant" until we were asked to leave so locals could use it and so we spent the best part of seven hours sat in solitude being stared at by the Vietnamese!

The following day we had booked a boat trip to go to the Mun and Tam islands.  We were on-board one of two boats that followed each other around all day.  As it was a public holiday the boats were completely full of Vietnamese, who pretty much stared at us and everything we did for the whole day!

The first thing to say is that I totally loved 30 April 2006 and Angela enjoyed it.  The difference in our opinion stems from the fact that Angela is obviously much better looking than I am, has lovely skin and much nicer boobs!  I say this not only from the looks she got from Vietnamese men, but also the women.  Do not go to Vietnam if you are at all self-conscious, they stare and stare and even stare when you look straight at them!  They also want to touch you to see what your skin feels like!  Some politely ask, some sneakily touch you and others just grab hold of whatever is closest!  Literally!  I even got grabbed by the balls at one point, by the "guide" on the boat!

The "guide" tried his hardest from the minute we boarded the boat to make us the entertainment for everyone, but I don't think it would have made much difference anyway!  Everything we did was eagerly watched and discussed.

Firstly we set off to an island with awesome corals and fish to snorkel, but as there were so many boats ploughing up and down over and around the swimmers we decided to go for the safer glass-bottomed boat option!  Also, Angela really did not want to take off her clothes and reveal a swimsuit at this stage, as I genuinely think the people on board would have called all the other boats and swimmers over to see!

We then headed off to another island where we anchored and lunch was served.  This was great, as loads of different types of Vietnamese food was placed in the middle of the boat and everyone sat round the outside of the boat and helped themselves.  Shortly after the fun began again!  For myself I was suddenly not the entertainment, but one of the gang.  For Angela, unfortunately she became the entertainment on-board and one deck-hand, or Mr. Octopus hands I should say, had the time of his life!

The "guide" launched himself into the water and sat in a floating bar.  The wine and beer he had was free, but the condition was you had to be in a life-saving ring to get a drink.  Free beer was a big enough incentive for me so I launched myself very quickly off the boat, grabbed a life-saving ring and swam over to the bar.  Here I was greeted by the Vietnamese men who had all done the same.  They all wanted to say cheers, in both English and Vietnamese and find out where we were from, etc.  Off the boat they plucked up the courage, with a few beers and glasses of wine, to talk to me rather than just stare!  Oh, the wine they were drinking by the half-bottle at a time, was actually port!

Angela, decided to join me, but as she does not like being out of her depth wanted to put on a life-jacket.  This was were the fun really began.  The jackets are made for Asians.  Asian men are an average of fifty kilos, half my weight, and the Asian ladies don't have big boobs, they wear heavily padded bras, etc!  So Angela trying to put on a life-jacket was great fun for everyone else on-board.  The deck-hand I mentioned, well his eyes nearly fell out when he tried to help Angela do the zip up and her boobs squashed together!  He repeated the action several times apparently!  He then dragged her across the boat and tried to throw her in the water.  The skipper must have noticed this guy was being an idiot because he came and shouted at him, after which the same guy then spent the rest of the day apologising to us!

Our next destination was a beach resort, which they made you pay to get on.  It was absolutely packed with Vietnamese and there was no shade at all, so we stayed on the boat.  The other boat were having a party as they were all from the same company and had brought their own food, wine and beer.  They noticed we were left on the boat alone and one of the ladies came and asked me if I would dance with her.  Well, actually she grabbed me by the arm and whilst asking, started to pull me over to the other boat!  They also were seeing how far they could push us, but at the same time as trying to make us the entertainment they genuinely wanted us to enjoy the day with them.  After all the free drink at the floating bar, these guys now started to ply us with local food and more beer and wine!  I think I was asked to dance so they could see how "Westerners" dance, although I'm not exactly sure I was the best person to demonstrate this!

After an hour they all disappeared onshore and the skipper invited us to join him and a couple of the crew for a drink at the back of the boat!  This involved serving each other beer from a bowl!  They had a mouthful sized cup which you drank the beer from, filled it up and passed it to the next person!  We tried to empty the bowl, but somehow more beer just kept appearing!  Result!

Our final port of call was a fishing village where you could go for a ride in one of the "nutshell" boats.  Watching the kids steer these things was amazing, but given our size and weight and the fact you had to balance on the edge of it we declined!

The following day we flew to Hoi An, via Da Nang, which is an ancient seaside city.  Here we just relaxed and strolled around the old town visiting The Phuoc Kien Assembly Hall, which is home to Thien Hau, the Goddess of the Sea and Protector of Sailors.  We also crossed the old Japanese Bridge, so called because it was built to join the Chinese and Japanese quarters together and our final visit was to Phung Hung House, a family home that eight generations have lived in since 1780.

After a couple of nights in Hoi An we drove to Hue, the ancient capital of Vietnam, travelling over Hai Van Pass and around the beautiful Lang Co beach.  The journey itself was breathtaking, but that was mainly due to the erratic nature of our driver and the sheer volume of traffic on the roads!

We only stayed one night in Hue, but we visited the Heavenly Lady Pagoda, known locally as Thien Mu, the Perfume River, The Khai Dinh Mausoleum and the Citadel.  The Citadel is an enormous south facing walled complex surrounded by a moat.  We entered the Citadel through Ngo Mon Gate, which has the Five Phoenix Watchtower on top of it.  The gate has five entrances, the middle one for the king, the two either side for the dignitaries and outside two for the royal elephants.  Inside the citadel we visited the Thai Hoa Palace and then entered the Forbidden Purple Palace.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped to visit a lady who makes the circular hats that all the farmers wear.  What makes this lady unique is that she only has one arm, yet is famous for making the best quality hats in Vietnam.  So much so that she was visited by one of the Popes!  If you hold these hats up to the light, they hold a secret, which is an image of daily life in Vietnam, made by putting newspaper cut into shapes in between the two layers of reeds.

That evening we were meant to go for a cruise on the Perfume River to listen to some traditional Vietnamese music.  Our "driver" turned up twenty minutes late, on a moped and looked disgusted that we were too big to both fit on it!  He then made us follow him on foot, in the rain without an umbrella or raincoat, whilst he drove his moped to where the boat was!  He then disappeared for another twenty minutes before coming back and saying that all the boats were full and that we had to back to the hotel!  Whilst we were waiting for this nugget, who had been paid the day before by the hotel to get our tickets, we watched dozens of other people get on-board at least five boats and set off for their evening cruise!  Oh, he also just walked off and left us at the river to find our own way back to the hotel in the rain!  It wouldn't have surprised me if he had asked for a tip first though, but he didn't!  Maybe it was the look Angela gave him!

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