Kuala Lumpur, Borneo

& the Malaysian Grand Prix

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On Saturday 11 March 2006 we took a seven hour train journey from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur.  The seats were fantastic, with loads of space and the views of the Malaysian countryside and jungle along the way were incredible.  The view from our hotel room was straight over the city, towards the Petronas Twin Towers.  We would have had a perfect view of it had it not been for an HSBC building in the way!

We only had two nights in Kuala Lumpur city centre so as soon as we got up we went to the Petronas Towers, queued up for a ticket that gave us a time slot to go up the towers.  We duly collected our ticket for a tour that was meant to start at 2:30pm, four hours later.  One of our friends from Southampton, Vic, told us that if we approached the tour desk when nobody else was around they may let us in straight away if we said that we had only got a short amount of time in KL (Kuala Lumpur) and was there anyway we could get an early time?  He was right!  They disappeared into the back, came back with new tickets for 10:30am and let us through there and then!  Thanks Vic!

So up we went to the Sky Bridge positioned at Level 41 of the 88 Levels, 170 metres above the ground, connecting the 452 metre high Petronas Towers, the tallest twin towers in the world.

Kuala Lumpur was a thriving, bustling city and we stayed in an area called "Bukit Bintang."  One of the roads adjacent to the hotel had one side of it completely dedicated to foot massages!  We went to one called "Best Friend Foot Massage" which was so good we went back again later that day and had a half-body massage (top half if you don't mind!)  We had a couple of more mature Malaysians give us our foot massages and you could tell that they were very experienced from the pain they could inflict without notice, yet they still managed to relax you!  We specifically asked for them again that afternoon as Mok noticed all the injuries I had ever got playing rugby, just by massaging my feet!  Unfortunately he was busy so this little, frail-looking, old lady introduced herself as my masseuse!  Little and old she may have been, but England would not have lost a game in the Six Nations with her in the pack I can tell you!  She unknotted every muscle in my back and beat the stress out of me, literally!  Afterwards, however, you felt totally relaxed and we had one of the best night’s sleep we have had in a long time!

From Kuala Lumpur we flew to Borneo for five nights in the jungle.  We stayed at a place called Sepilok Jungle Resort which was just outside Sandakan.  This place really did look like an oasis in the jungle, it was incredible.  It had boardwalks from the rooms to the restaurant and that zigzagged over lakes and through brightly coloured plants and trees.

Next door to the resort was an Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre that we visited a couple of times to see the younger Orang-Utans being fed.  This place has no boundaries, no enclosures, no fences, it is in the jungle and all the animals are free to come and go as they please.  Many of the apes that have been rehabilitated there no longer come down to the lodge at feeding time as the aim of the centre is to make the Orang-Utans totally independent and this is working with tremendous success.

However, twice a day there is a procession of Pig-Tailed Macaques and Orang-Utans that make their way to the feeding platform.  The monkeys just walk along the boardwalk straight past you (a good sign that they have never/rarely been fed by visitors) whilst there is a rope system in place for the Orang-Utans to make their way out of the jungle and onto the feeding platform.  The apes just hang around, literally, waiting for the person with the buckets to arrive.  In the morning it is bananas and in the afternoon milk and sugar cane.  This is merely a supplement to their diet and a chance for the centre to make any necessary observations.  There is not anywhere near enough food for them to survive as this would not help in the aim of making them in dependant.

We were also lucky enough to see two species of snakes at the centre as we were walking out, what we think was a Pope's Pit Viper and a baby Wagler's Pit Viper.  We also saw a six feet long Mangrove Snake at the resort.

From Sepilok we went on an overnight trip to a little village called Bilit on the Kinabatangan River.  After a two hour trip on an alleged road in a 4X4 with the tyres let down we arrived at the village.  Our accommodation for the night was basic, but good, although it wasn't mosquito-proof as they said!  I got bitten no less than twenty-three times that night and ten of the bites were on the soles of my feet!

The trip was well worth it though, out on motorised canoes, we crept along narrow inlets looking for wildlife.  We saw Long-Tailed Macaques, an Otter, Crocodiles, some great birds, such as the Stork-Billed Kingfisher, Oriental Pied Hornbill and Serpent Eagle, as well as the Proboscis Monkeys, which is endemic to Borneo.  These guys are an amazing colour and have really pronounced noses which they use to call out to other monkeys.

From Borneo we flew back to Kuala Lumpur, where we stayed in Sepang and went to the Malaysian Grand Prix!  We managed, somehow, to get tickets on the front row of the start/finish straight, right opposite the Ferrari Pits and about 100 metres down from the Winners Podium.

Angela was in awe as she is a massive Schumacher fan, which we also happened to be surrounded by, but I had to cheer on Jenson Button.  In qualifying Jenson ended up on the front row but was just beaten to pole by Giancarlo Fisichella.  Schumacher had to drop ten places as he changed his engine after the Bahrain Grand Prix!  Shame!

The drivers are driven round the track before the race to wave at the crowd.  We shouted out to Jenson as he went past and managed to get a thumbs up from him as our, well, MY, England flag stood out like a sore thumb amongst all the Ferrari supporters!  The biggest cheer of the day happened on the first lap however, when boring, boring, grumpy Hakkinen crashed out of the race!  Fisichella won, with Alonso in second, so a one, two finish for Renault.  Jenson finished third so at least one of us got to see the diver we were supporting on the podium!

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