NEW ZEALAND, PART ONE

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We arrived in Christchurch on a Saturday afternoon and were completely blown away by how busy the place was!  We stood in Cathedral Square, the centre of Christchurch and could just about count the people around us with one hand, well maybe four hands, but still, come on, this is the largest city in the south island!

It is a great place though, but terribly English, 1950s England that is.  Very laid back and relaxed, we didn't venture out for a night until Sunday and boy was that a mistake!  The first three pubs we went to only open on Wednesdays through to Saturdays!

We did find a pub, although I was loathed to drink there as Graham Henry's mugshot was emblazoned on a huge poster on the wall holding a bottle of the local brew.  After sampling the local ales we tried to find somewhere to eat and low and behold ended up in a.... Curry House!  Angela is to blame for this, not me, she was the one who really fancied a curry, I of course objected for a whole nano-second!  A great curry was washed down with "Strong" Kingfisher, which is much more alcoholic, 7.2%, than the Kingfisher we get in England!

Due to our rugby requirements we decided to head to the North Island and travel round there first, ending up in Wellington for the beginning of February for the IRB World Sevens and then back in Christchurch in March.

Our journey up to Picton, where you catch the ferry to North Island, took us to Kaikoura. Here we went Whale, Dolphin, Albatross and Seal searching, firstly by private plane, then by boat.

Our initial intention was just to go and suss out who we were going to go with when we returned in a month or so, but after spotting seals and then dolphins from the road we decided it might be better to "do" Kaikoura now.  We saw four Giant Sperm Whales from the air, as well as a pod of over two hundred Dusky Dolphins.  By boat we saw a further three Giant Sperm Whales as well as getting much closer to the Dolphins as they played around the boat.  We also watched Giant Albatrosses and saw the New Zealand Fur Seals.

We decided not to go for a tour that said you can "swim" with the Dolphins as it wasn't what we would call swimming with them.  More a case of jump in the water, watch them swim past you, get back on the boat, race ahead of them and repeat several times in the hope that eventually they swim close to you.  After our experiences elsewhere in the world we decided to pass.

On the way up to Picton we drove through Cloudy Bay, for the wine buffs amongst you it will be a familiar name as it is one of the sort after wines in the UK.

The ferry over to North Island was amazing, the views are breathtaking as you navigate through all the tiny islands, not surprisingly they claim to have one of the most scenic journeys of any ferry in the world and we would not disagree.

We drove from Wellington up to a place called Wanganui.  All we really did in Wanganui was, well, quite frankly drink, eat and sleep!  Angela was as drunk as I have seen her in many years and I was challenged to drink twelve pints of "Tui" to claim a free t-shirt.  Yes, I did manage and in just under four hours! It had to be pretty weak beer mind you, as I really wasn't that bad in comparison to Angela who was on red wine!  We then staggered across to a garage opposite the hotel that sold pies, Angela persuaded me not to buy all of them, we took them back to the hotel, consumed them and fell asleep!

That was Wanganui!  Oh, we also had a McDonalds breakfast the following morning before we left!

From Wanganui we headed towards New Plymouth and the Taranaki National Park.  Our first full day we decided to go out on Happy Chaddy Charters.  Chaddy is a living legend, an ex-boxer of some repute, ranked fourth in the world in his weight division at one stage, and a sailor for many a year.  We had a scream listening to his tales of the area, we went out to see Dicky Barrett's Hill, the Sugar Loaves, New Zealand Fur Seals and to do a spot of fishing!  We went out in an old Bridlington life-boat, launched from the life-boat shed whilst we were onboard, accompanied by Chaddy's dog, who was the keenest fisher-dog of them all!  Watching this little dog fishing was hilarious and boy did he get excited when he hooked a fish!

We caught loads of Crayfish and plenty of Pacific Salmon which Chaddy kindly let us take one of each back to our cabin for dinner.  He gutted the fish for us thankfully, but we had a good old scrap with the crayfish when we got back, especially when he tried to fling himself out of the kitchen sink!  However, we cooked him, following Chaddy's specific instructions and pan-fried the Pacific Salmon following his daughter's recommended recipe and quickly devoured them both!

The following day we went to Egmont National Park to see the snow-capped, cloud covered, Taranaki Mountain and to see the various sights, such as Dawsons Falls and the Enchanted Trek.  We made our way back along the Surfing Highway to New Plymouth, noticing that we only very occasionally could see the sea from the road and that the beaches were always three kilometres from the highway!

Our next stop was Hamilton, just about half way between New Plymouth and Auckland.  On the way we went to the Waitomo Glowworm Caves and have to say they were amazing.  These are naturally formed limestone caves with huge caverns, stalactites, stalagmites, an underground river and literally thousands of these little Glowworms everywhere.  They have two main "rooms" called the Organ Loft and the Cathedral.  They are sixteen metres apart vertically, the Organ Loft being dry and the Cathedral having a river running through it.  The "Cathedral" is the highlight of the tour as you are pulled along in a boat, in almost total silence (children permitting), as you look up you see what seems like a pitch black sky filled with thousands of tiny little stars.  Our guide said that the caves were one of the safest places to be in an earthquake.  He had been in there about fourteen years ago when one occurred and he didn't know anything about it until he emerged an hour later!

We drove from Hamilton to Auckland, through stunning landscapes where The Last Samurai and Lord of the Rings were both filmed.

We also went and walked around parts of The Maori Queens House and Estate, in Ngaruawahia.  This really felt like you were somewhere very special and of historic importance.  It was once the capital of the Maori Kingdom of the Waikato tribes.  The present queen, who has reigned since 1966, is the sixth, and first female ruler, of the Waikato tribes.  This was the Maori equivalent to the British Buckingham Palace.

We were allowed to walk into the grounds and have a look at places like the Ceremonial Square and Meeting House.  We were told that strictly no photos, or filming, were allowed as this was deemed such a sacred place for Maori culture.  We were allowed to take a photo of the outside and from the opposite banks of the River Waikato where you could see the two longboats they had on the shore.

In Auckland, the City of Sails, we again had dinner in a Skytower, this one being the tallest in the southern hemisphere at 328 metres high.  After riding up 220 metres in the glass-floored elevator, we, well I, stood on the glass floor in the observation deck looking down at the street below!  Next we went up to the Skydeck which is another ten floors higher before we returned to the restaurant just above the observation deck to have a fantastic dinner whilst we watched the sunset.

The following day we went on a Harbour Cruise around various points of interest, including seeing the Hilton Hotel's suspended swimming pool, Birkenhead, Davenport and the Auckland Harbour Bridge.

From Auckland we made our way up to Paihia, stopping at Kerikeri briefly, where we went to the Chocolate Factory that made chocolates to rival those we tried during October in Ushuaia, Argentina.  The Macadamia "Bark" in white chocolate was definitely our favourite, but there was something for just about everyone in there!  Angela suggested we buy the chocolate covered fruits as that would be the healthy option!

We then spent a couple of nights in Paihia in the Bay of Islands where we again went out on a boat in search of marine life and to explore the islands.  We managed to find a couple of huge, gorgeous, Bottle-nosed Dolphins on our way to the Hole in the Rock, which surprisingly was a hole in the rock!  However when we sailed through it, we all gave the hole and the Polynesian Princess, a rock formation on the same island that brings luck to all who sail through the hole, the respect they were due!

Our first night in Paihia we were just about to have dinner when we were shaken by the loudest air-raid siren you might ever have heard!  We genuinely wondered if there was a Tsunami, the Japanese were invading, or a volcano was about to erupt!  Later we found out that it is the siren to call in the volunteer Fire brigade.  One morning it went off before we were awake and we just about had to peel ourselves off the ceiling!

Did you know that for an island to be classed as an island it has to have sustainable vegetation, otherwise it is just a rock?  The Bay of Islands has 144 islands.

We also went to Waitangi, where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed on 6 February 1840 by forty-three Maori chiefs, although over 500 chiefs signed it in total.  The Treaty was an agreement between two peoples to live and work together in one nation, the Maori and the Pakeha.

We visited the Treaty House, "Te Whare Runanga" which is a Maori Meeting House and finally walked down to the beach and saw "Ngatokimatawhaorua."  This is a thirty-five metre long Maori Waka (Canoe) which needs a minimum of seventy-six paddlers to handle it safely on the water!

From Paihia we started our journey back south, stopping for a night in Auckland again so we could visit Auckland Zoo.  This was a pretty impressive zoo in so far as the space in the enclosures for the animals.  We saw their three week old zebra and very young giraffe, as well as a gorgeous Sumatran tiger.  Unfortunately for Angela they didn't have a petting zoo, however that did save us a fortune!

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